A second lever moves the piece of wood getting mortised up and down so that the mortise can be cut to any width.

Used for thousands of years by woodworkers around the world, the mortise and tenon joint is both simple and strong, and a critical link in building a timber frame. The mortising machines have been coinstructed on the general principles of the old hand chisel and auger, representing in their operation the processes of the human operative. These machines the chain mortiser rep laces, throwi ng into disuse the old chiseling processes, and substituting therefor a cutting tool which eats its way into the heart of the hardest or softest wood with the utmost rapidity, making therein a m orti se of mathematical accu racy of s h ape, cleali ng it of even the smallest chip and leaving no core to be knocked out. Makita provides a limited one-year warranty on the Chain Mortiser Model 7104L that guarantees the tool to be of free of defects. The biggest downside is that you are limited by the depth of the mortises, they are not UL listed (the last time I checked) and the upfront cost.I have tried it with my little Stihl MS 171 and it's not as scary as you'd think but I wouldn't advise it if you're not 110% comfortable with a chainsaw. I mean say you have one at the top of your post and one half way down in another position is there an easy way to mark this out so it lines up perfect. It being green oak I don't need to be incredibly accurate, but I am doing this on my own and I do need to get the frame built without too much messing about! Can’t help but think that if they take that path we will miss the opportunity to learn something interesting, just saying that doing things in the “correct way” not always gives the community the best results, experimentation is the key to learning. Get a Makita chain morticer and sell on when you're done - you'll struggle to find a pillar drill and morticing bit that'd make a typical mortice for an oak frame - (say 40 wide, 150 long and 100 deep in a 200 x 200 beam or post!

The play isn’t in the bar as it’s bolted into a grooved channel and can’t move, but there seems to be a little slop in the vertical slide columns. I’m a novice when it comes to framing, so I picked one of these up a few weeks ago, it works great, cuts like a hot knife through butter and very accurate.I am making a couple of timber frames shortly, and have about 120 mortises to cut in green oak beams of either 175 x 175 or 150 x 150 cross section. I don't have any personal experiences with using a chain mortiser in log building, but I have used one in timber framing for many years. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average.

To use the attachment place the sharpened tynes onto the timber and engage full throttle - peak revs. America has been pre-eminently a wood-producing country, and has brought sh a ping, planing an d m wing machinery into the greatest perfection. The 7104L/2 is equipped with a front cover to enclose the cutter chain, pivoting chain bar to enable the user to make 130mm long recangular holes in three cutting processes without having to re-clamp the work piece and single plunge operation. Scientific American is part of Springer Nature, which owns or has commercial relations with thousands of scientific publications (many of them can be found at www. I am currently putting up my own structure - mixture of oak and douglas and used a small chainsaw for cutting/blocking in the mortise and then working with a long steel firmer/paring chisel.It easily and smoothly plunges a first mortise (about 11/16" x 2-1/16" with the 18mm chain) all the way through a 6x6. blockquote>Posted By: blacksmith

Posted By: Peter_in_Hungary

Posted By: JoinerReplacement chains for chain morticers are eye-wateringly expensive. Scientific American maintains a strict policy of editorial independence in reporting developments in science to our readers. Hopefully it's not an issue in the first place but it might be worth checking out or maybe someone can shed some light on it? You can change your choices at any time by visiting Cookie preferences, as described in the Cookie notice.

One can make through mortises on large timbers by laying out and cutting from both sides of the timber. The work table on its front is adapted to be placed at different angles, so that the mortises can be made in any desired direction.

Can anyone tell me if they have purchased one of the used models from Japan and if they had any issues with voltage (Japan is 100v while USA is 110-120v)? I have never used a Mafell, and could have gone with one but I had read that the SP had a couple of small advantages over the Mafell. If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place. The sunken mortise surrounds are easily enough dealt with by router, so its only the slots I am bothered about. Doing a bunch of plunges, then unclamping, moving, reclamping the post and then plunging a bunch more times seems silly.

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