Within the Can-O-Worms® built in mounds encourages worms to move from the collector trays to the working trays. I harvest them from different bins for genetic diversity as currently each of my trays have worms from various sources. This conical shaped wormery (60cm x 65cm x 95cm) sits on a metal frame which is on wheels to make it easier to manoeuvre.

When the tray is full right to the brim add a new tray, the bottom of this new tray must be in contact with the surface of the full tray below, this now becomes the feeding tray and you just continue putting your waste into this tray. These worms will also be the ones to help recycle your organic scraps at home, so it’s just suitable to look out for them, as if they were like your pets.Tumbleweed’s Can-O-Worms® is the world’s best selling worm farm – and it comes with everything you need to get started, just add worms.

After the red wigglers have eaten mostly everything on the first tray, and have already produced their castings, they will then go up the next food source (the next tray). And you will occasionally lift the trays for general housecleaning and checking the conditions in the bin.The ‘mound’ at the centre of this tray has been designed so that any worms that fall into this tray are able to climb back up. My choice of bedding material for the initial layer is corrugated cardboard because of its internal structure (the flutes) it allows an excellent air flow, cardboard retains moisture very well and the glue used is corn based and is good food source for the worms. The main components of a stacking wormery are the sump tray with a drainage tap and to which the legs are attached, then you have 2 or 3 “working” trays, these can be identified by having holes drilled across the base and finally, a lid.

Our testers found the trays easy to handle but that the “stop” between them prevented worms from working upwards, even though aeration was improved. Compost worms feed mainly on bacteria, protozoa and other micro-organisms so a fresh new bedding will not be appetising to them. Stacking wormery: these models consist of multiple trays with mesh bases stacked on top of each other, with up to three or four layers in total.I want to lift tier 2 off, then take tier 1 off so I can put tier 1 on top of teir 2 (to send the worms downwards). div>
850g Worm Farm and Compost Conditioner – developed to help neutralize acidity and balance pH levels so that your composting worms can digest larger quantities of waste faster. newspaper or even a piece of plastic cut to fit, this is to encourage the worms to the surface to feed, you do not need to purchase “worm rugs” or “worm mats” unless you really want to. This large capacity wormery (75cm x 57cm x 39cm) includes 18 litre trays which we found produced good quality compost. The world beneath our feet is teeming with life, and understanding the biological processes that make our soil thrive is more than just academic—it’s essential for the future of our planet.

I wanted to do that because I had far too much "fresh" food to go striaght in the wormery, and I hoped by bokashi-fermenting it the worms would get through it quicker. The first problem may be you find on a new set up is the worms crawling up the sides and out under the lid, if you have used our worm and bedding kit this will stop most of this but it can still happen, if you use coir, just newspaper/cardboard as often recommended or any unsuitable bedding such as garden centre potting compost it will almost certainly happen, it can happen when the weather is wet and forecasting rain and the pressure is low, the fact that the worms have been harvested, packed and transported can also cause this, they are just agitated! Lastly, check the base layer regularly - as you'll see from my experience it can quickly get flooded. Once you’ve emptied the tray it moves to the top of the wormery – in this way your organic waste will constantly be recycled.Migration usually occurs at night and you find them all over the floor in the morning, after initially setting up the wormery it is a good idea to stand it on wet newspaper/cardboard, cloth or sacking, this way any escapees can be retrieved in the morning before they have dried out, if the problem persists for more than a couple of nights which can happen when there is a few days of wet or stormy weather then it would be best to place the wormery, with the lid off, under a low level light at night, the problem should settle after a night or two. As long as you check regularly for liquid (which will stop them being able to crawl back into the main chambers) they'll be fine down there. The Can-O-Worms will reduce the amount of garbage that is put out in the trash can each week and the fertilizer it produces is great for the garden. The brand offers a variety of award-winning products suited to different households and environments, alongside all necessary accessories. We were also impressed by the well-planned design which features a V-shaped sump and stepped interior.